The Iranian code of etiquette called "ta'arouf," is a complex and multi-faceted phenomenon with cultural as well as political implications. It smothers almost every social interaction with a labyrinth of expected requests, responses and counter requests that is nearly impossible to explain to an outsider. Yet in many ways it exemplifies the Iranian psyche more than any other single facet of Iranian life. In ta'arouf you witness Iranians' deep sense of pride, coupled with intense self-deprecation - their love of social life mashed up against their tendency towards privacy. Ta'arouf is even the source of some of the more baffling, frustrating interactions between Iranian leaders and the West. But in this episode, you see a rather benign and humorous exchange of ta'arouf between my family. I'm sure I will have to return to the topic soon - it is nearly impossible to gloss over.
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